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Dogs
In dogs we commonly hear of behavioral issues such as over activity and
displays of aggression. Aggression in dogs can be a way to convey a
warning, threatening or harmful behavior directed toward another
creature or human. Aggressive behaviors can be identified by snarling,
growling, snapping, nipping, biting or lunging. To address and correct
behavioral issues, a combination of behavior modification techniques,
drug therapy, surgery, avoidance, and management may be necessary. Each
issue of aggression is unique to each particular patient and often no
one-treatment method is the same for another dog. Depending on the
diagnosis and an owner’s capability, motivation, and schedule some
methods may or may not be feasible. You should have your pet examined by
a veterinarian to determine if there is a medical explanation for the
dog’s behavior. If it is determined that health issues are not a
concern, then seeing a behaviorist or trainer might be the next step. A
behaviorist will ask you many questions regarding the dog’s behavior and
environment. Keeping a journal to record certain events and behaviors
can be useful to give an accurate account of the aggression being
displayed. Keep these things in mind: what brings on the aggression, how
often does it occur, to whom it is directed, what specific behaviors are
exhibited, and the dog’s postures at the time. Aggression is can be a
result of numerous factors such as: genetic predisposition, early
experience, maturation, sex, age, size, hormonal status, physiological
state and external stimuli. Behavior issues can then fall into one of
the various categories: dominance-related aggression, territorial
aggression, inter-male aggression, predatory-aggression, fear-induced
aggression, maternal aggression, and re-directed aggression.
It is important to keep in mind that even with successful treatment
there is no guarantee that the behavior won’t return, the best hope is
to reduce the probability of aggression. Weigh the risks of keeping an
aggressive dog against the benefits. If your dog’s behavior cannot be
predicted then using a muzzle may be an option or it may help to keep
your dog confined in a separate room when visitors or children are
present, housing or feeding your dogs separately if they are fighting
with each other, or removing objects like bones or rawhides that your
dog may be guarding.
Some dogs whether they are one year old or 13 years old, can be
constantly hyper and always on the move. Dogs like these often bark
excessively, jump on people, tug on the leash, steal food off the
counter, and demand attention at all times. Overactive dogs are usually
a result of a learned behavior issue rather than a medical issue. There
is a medical diagnosis of over activity called hyperkinesis, but it is
rare. It is important to know that some breeds are genetically
predisposed to be physically active, such as sporting breeds, but this
does not mean that this kind of behavior is uncontrollable. This can be
a learned condition because most overactive dogs have learned to be that
way because their jumping, barking, running and tugging have earned them
fun or attention from people and their owners. To address these kinds of
problems use combinations of verbal control, physical restraint, and
increased exercise. Training that includes rewards can be very
effective. Dogs respond well to training when they realize that their
efforts are rewarding. To gain more control start by consistently
instructing him to "sit", or "stay" or "down" to earn what he wants such
as food, petting, play, or any other kind of attention. Using his leash
indoors can be beneficial as well. Dogs that jump, run and leap out of
reach can be kept on a leash before any problem actually occurs. All
dogs require exercise but some dogs require particularly rigorous
exercise such as running, swimming, and extended games of fetch. If the
overactive problem seems to be too difficult to change without help, ask
your veterinarian for assistance or look into a behavior specialist.
Cats
Very often cats can cause problems for their owners with inappropriate
elimination and furniture scratching. With some investigation and
behavior modification techniques there is help against these problems.
Inappropriate elimination can be due to several factors such as medical
problems, physiological problems, elimination preferences or anxiety and
stress. Some reasons that your cat can stop using the litter box all of
a sudden may be a dirty litter box, placement, litter changes, and box
issues. Cats by nature are very clean animals and if your litter box
smells bad to you, then it smells bad to your cat. Cats have 200 million
odor-sensitive cells in their noses compared to our 5 million. Part of
the reason cats are so particular about this is basic animal instinct.
In the wild, predators hunt by scent. And naturally, in an attempt at
preservation cats try to “cover their tracks”. A dirty litter box can
make a cat feel susceptible to predators. Clean the box often and scoop
out the soiled litter and solid wastes daily and scrub the box with warm
soapy water weekly if you are using clay litter. Do not use harsh
cleaners such as bleach to clean the box because their odor can be
picked up on by your cat and discourage them from using the box. Also,
clumping litter can help make the box easier to clean.
Location of the box is very important as well. If your cat does not like
the location he may not use it at all. Do not place the litter box too
close to his water and food dishes. Most cats do not like to eat and
eliminate in the same area. Make sure the box is easily accessible. For
example, putting it in a remote area of the house may deter the cat from
using it. Keep the litter box away from the noisy water heater, the
washer and dryer, or a dominant cat’s territory. Cats like safe, quiet
places to eliminate. Follow your cat and observe what’s going on. Try
several locations until you find one he will use consistently. If a
change in the brand of litter occurs and the problems begins try
changing back. The cat may not like the smell or texture of the new
litter. Experiment with several types to see what he likes best.
Purchase a small amount of each, testing between clumping and
non-clumping (try to use the unscented versions), recycled paper, wood
byproducts, plant-based material, etc. If you bring a normally outdoor
cat indoors, he will not be used to using litter. You might first try
using dirt or sand or whatever he’s been using in the yard and as he
starts to use the box consistently, very gradually over the next couple
of weeks mix the dirt with increasing amounts of litter.
The size, shape, and depth of the litter box can also affect your cat’s
behavior. Hooded litter boxes are suitable for some cats, however others
can feel confined and feel trapped, and this can also be a problem in
multiple cat households, as it can become a dominance dispute. Older
cats or cats with health problems may have trouble stepping into a box
with high sides. If a cat’s movement is an issues provide a ramp that
allows them to step down inside. Some cats don’t like box liners. Remove
the liner if you notice your cat pulling it up or leaving claw marks in
plastic. Providing several types of boxes of different sizes and type
may help resolve the litter box problem.
If your cat seems to be straining to urinate or you notice any
abnormalities such as the ability to eliminate, the amount, the
consistency or blood in the urine or stool, see your veterinarian.
Inappropriate elimination can be a result of a urinary tract infection
or other medical issues as well.
Cats are great pets but they by nature are scratchers, particularly
targeting furniture or stereo speakers. A cat’s scratching is not random
and there are reasons for their scratching. In the wild cats scratch
around their immediate environment to signal their presence to other
cats and to claim their area. Through scratching a cat leaves a physical
mark as well as a release of pheromones. Cats secrete pheromones from
superficial glands in the skin of the cat’s paws through the process of
kneading. Scratching also helps your cat to achieve a form of physical
therapy for the muscles and tendons and helps to remove old nail husks.
If you experience problems with your cat scratching furniture, provide
scratching posts. Allow enough height on a scratching post for a cat to
stretch and use a fabric that allows the scratch marks to be visible.
Most cats respond to burlap, wood or carpet. Choose an attractive
location for the post because your cat wants it to be seen so hiding it
from view may not help. Adjust the cat to the post now, and then
relocate them later.
To protect a particular piece of furniture place a heavy plastic over
it, which can help, deter the cat from scratching it. You can try using
repellant aerosols, which contain napthol, however the area has to be
sprayed periodically as the odor will fade. Another product on the
market to help alleviate scratching is called Soft Paws or (Soft
Claws), which are plastic covers glued over a cat’s nails. The covers
need to be replaced each month as the nail grows, but damage to
furniture is prevented. Keeping your cat’s nails trimmed can help with
scratching as well.
If you are experiencing any behavioral issues with your cat or dog be
sure to consult your veterinarian to determine a regime that’s best to
correct the behavior and to rule out any health concerns.
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